CREAMSICLE SOAP

GLOW IN THE DARK DINOSAUR SOAP EGGS

LOOFAH SOAP

JELLY ROLL SOAP

Multi-Layered Soap
Sparkling Soap
Tye-Dye Soap
HOW TO USE A 3-D MOLD

Tye-Dye Soap

BATHBOMB RECIPES & VARIATIONS

1. Mix two parts baking soda with 1 part citric acid.
2. Fill a spray bottle with water and add dye color.
3. Add fragrance or essential oil at the rate of approximately 1 teaspoon per 2 cups of dry material. This can be varied depending upon desired strength of scent.
4. Using a spoon or electric mixer, slowly mist and incorporate the water/dye mixture into the dry ingredients until the mixture begins to clump. Add the water very slowly and mist evenly as you mix the dry ingredients or the mixture will fizz. You do not want to add too much water too quickly or the mixture will be too puffy to mold. Continue to slowly add water until the mixture can be formed into ball when squeezed in the hand. Do not over water.
Either roll the mixture into balls or mold the mixture in decorative molds. Let stand in the mold until mixture hardens and can be easily removed from the mold.

Variation:
Use 1 cup baking soda, ½ cup of citric acid, & 1/3 cup of corn starch. Some crafters find that the addition of corn starch assists in the setting up or "clumping" of the mixture. Try it both ways and see which method works best for you.
Variation:
Some crafters enhance their bath bombs/fizzies by adding small amounts of dried botanicals such as flower petals and spices.


BATHSALT RECIPES & VARIATIONS

Mix 2 cups of fine sea salt with 1 teaspoon of fragrance/essential oil and 1 drop of concentrated dye. Mix or shake until each crystal is evenly coated.

Variation:
Mix your own proportion of coarse sea salt with fine sea salt to provide a contrast and more interesting mixture.

Standard Bath Splash Recipe

• Unscented & uncolored bath splash base.
• Fragrance of your choice.
• Dye color of your choice.
Take 8 oz. of room temperature bath splash base and put it into a bowl or large measuring cup. Add 1/2 tsp. of your preferred scent and mix well. Slowly add your choice of colored dye (Never use a pigment when coloring bath splash as pigments do not dissolve in bath splash bases.) until the desired color is reached.
When using Soap Wizards dyes, you have two choices, our hobby dyes or professional dyes. Our hobby dyes will allow you to add drop-by-drop until you reach the desired color while our professional dyes may take far less than a drop at a time. You can effectively dilute our professional dyes by cutting them with water.
When using Soap Wizards fragrances, 1/2 tsp. is just a basic starting point, you may want to add more or less to suit the mix to your particular preferences.
After you have the desired color and fragrance strength for your bath splash, simply multiply the amounts of dye and fragrance oil used by 16 (8 oz X 16 = 128 oz which is one gallon) and you are ready to mix your product in bulk.
For example:
If you used 3/4 tsp. of fragrance oil and 2 drops of hobby dye for 8 ounces of bath splash.
3/4 (3 divided by 4 = .75) tsp. fragrance oil X 16 = 12 tsp. (6 tsp. = 1 oz)
2 drops dye X 16 = 32 drops
And there you have what you will need to mix up one gallon of colored, scented bath splash.
You can even use the above formula when trying to decide how much of each item you need to order to re-supply your stock or if you have to make a lot of product for an upcoming craft fair as long as you have a complete ounce quantity of what you need.

Mixing fragrance oils
Did you know that you can mix and match all of Soap Wizard's fragrance oils
to come up with new and unique fragrances of your very own? 
Mixing fragrance oils is very easy and all you need to do is keep track of how 
much of each fragrance you add (drops, tsp, etc) during your experimenting 
and presto, you have your very own custom blended fragrance that can be 
duplicated any time you need it!
Check out the table below for ideas or just as a starting point for your own
custom blended fragrances! 

Note: Following the link for each fragrance will take you to a fragrance group.

        Search for each fragrance within the group.

Standard Lotion Recipe
• Unscented & uncolored lotion base.
• Fragrance of your choice.
• Dye color of your choice.

Take 8 oz. of room temperature lotion base and put it into a bowl or large measuring cup. Add 1/2 tsp. of your preferred scent and mix well. Slowly add your choice of colored dye (Never use a pigment when coloring lotion as pigments do not dissolve in lotion bases.) until the desired color is reached.
When using Soap Wizards dyes, you have two choices, our hobby dyes or professional dyes. Our hobby dyes will allow you to add drop-by-drop until you reach the desired color while our professional dyes may take far less than a drop at a time. You can effectively dilute our professional dyes by cutting them with water.
When using Soap Wizards fragrances, 1/2 tsp. is just a basic starting point, you may want to add more or less to suit the mix to your particular preferences.
After you have the desired color and fragrance strength for your lotion, simply multiply the amounts of dye and fragrance oil used by 16 (8 oz X 16 = 128 oz which is one gallon) and you are ready to mix your product in bulk.
For example:
If you used 3/4 tsp. of fragrance oil and 2 drops of hobby dye for 8 ounces of lotion.
3/4 (3 divided by 4 = .75) tsp. fragrance oil X 16 = 12 tsp. (6 tsp. = 1 oz)
2 drops dye X 16 = 32 drops
And there you have what you will need to mix up one gallon of colored, scented lotion.
You can even use the above formula when trying to decide how much of each item you need to order to re-supply your stock or if you have to make a lot of product for an upcoming craft fair as long as you have a complete ounce quantity of what you need.

Lotion Bar
• 1 part beeswax
• 1 part shea butter or cocoa butter
• 1 part coconut oil
• Your choice of fragrance oil

This recipe is very simple and makes wonderful lotion bars that are great for your skin.
All you do is melt the shea or cocoa butter and wax in the microwave or a double boiler, and then add the coconut oil. The coconut oil melts at about 76 degrees, so when you add it to the rest of the melted ingredients it doesn't take very long for it to melt. (If you are doing this by microwave make sure that you use pot holders or something to take the bowl out of the oven, it gets very hot and is very easy to get burned without even noticing it.) Stir all of the ingredients for a little while to make sure it cools down some and won't ruin your molds, and then add your FO to your liking. When you have mixed everything thoroughly simply pour it into your mold or if you want you can pour it into a deodorant container. It sets up pretty quickly and feels so wonderful on your skin. It's great for those of you who don't want to worry about getting too much lotion out of the bottle at one time!

Standard Salt Scrub Recipe

• 3 cups fine sea salt or epsom salt.
• 1/2 tsp. fragrance oil of your choice.
• 1 drop hobby dye color of your choice.
• 1 cup scrub/massage oil.
Place your salt into a container that you can seal with a lid.
Add 1 drop of hobby dye.
Seal the container and shake vigorously (you can also roll the container across the floor multiple times to save on your arms. This is also a great way to include any children that you may have too!) until all of the salt is evenly colored. At this point you can add more of the hobby dye (one drop at a time) to reach the desired color intensity.
After your salt is colored to the desired intensity, add 1/2 tsp. of fragrance oil and mix exactly as you did with the dye. Add more fragrance oil ( a few drops at a time) to reach the desired fragrance intensity.
Combine both mixtures together in a PET-G or glass container that can be sealed with an air-tight lid until ready to use.

Standard Sugar Scrub Recipe

• 2 cups sugar (brown or white).
• 1 cup scrub/massage oil.
• 1/2 tsp. fragrance oil of your choice. (optional)
Combine fragrance oil with sugar and mix vigorously.
Add sugar/fragrance oil mixture to the 1 cup of scrub/massage oil and store in a PET-G or glass container that can be sealed with an air-tight lid until ready to use.
*Please note that these are standard recipes and can be modified to your own personal requirements*
 

Standard Gel Recipe

• Unscented & uncolored shower gel base.
• Fragrance of your choice.
• Dye color of your choice.
Take 8 oz. of room temperature shower gel base and put it into a bowl or large measuring cup. Add 1/2 tsp. of your preferred scent and mix well. Slowly add your choice of colored dye (Never use a pigment when coloring shower gel as pigments do not dissolve in shower gel bases.) until the desired color is reached.
When using Soap Wizards dyes, you have two choices, our hobby dyes or professional dyes. Our hobby dyes will allow you to add drop-by-drop until you reach the desired color while our professional dyes may take far less than a drop at a time. You can effectively dilute our professional dyes by cutting them with water.
When using Soap Wizards fragrances, 1/2 tsp. is just a basic starting point, you may want to add more or less to suit the mix to your particular preferences.
After you have the desired color and fragrance strength for your shower gel, simply multiply the amounts of dye and fragrance oil used by 16 (8 oz X 16 = 128 oz which is one gallon) and you are ready to mix your product in bulk.
For example:
If you used 3/4 tsp. of fragrance oil and 2 drops of hobby dye for 8 ounces of shower gel.
3/4 (3 divided by 4 = .75) tsp. fragrance oil X 16 = 12 tsp. (6 tsp. = 1 oz)
2 drops dye X 16 = 32 drops
And there you have what you will need to mix up one gallon of colored, scented shower gel.
You can even use the above formula when trying to decide how much of each item you need to order to re-supply your stock or if you have to make a lot of product for an upcoming craft fair as long as you have a complete ounce quantity of what you need.

Lufa Gel Recipe

• Unscented & uncolored shower gel base.
• Fragrance of your choice.
• Dye color of your choice.
• Powdered lufa.
This recipe will make an excellent exfoliating shower gel that your customers will not be able to get enough of. It is best to mix this type of product up in bulk, so this recipe is meant to yield one gallon of finished product.
First make sure your shower gel base is at room temperature, this will ensure that the powdered lufa mixes evenly throughout the shower gel base. Take 1 1/2 ounces of powdered lufa and slowly sprinkle it into the shower gel base while constantly stirring the shower gel base. (Note: failure to keep the shower gel base moving while you add the powdered lufa may result in large clumps forming in your shower gel which are just this side of impossible to get out once they form. We suggest using a cordless screwdriver or drill with a wire whisk attached to aid in incorporating the powdered lufa into the shower gel base.) After you have added the entire 1 1/2 ounces of powdered lufa to the shower gel, continue to mix the shower gel base for an additional 3 - 5 minutes to ensure even mixing.
Now simply add your favorite fragrance and dye to suit your tastes and you have an excellent exfoliating shower gel.

LUSCIOUS WATERMELON SOAP
(Submitted by Ela Heyn)

MATERIALS:

• Opaque M&P Crafting Soap Base
• Watermelon Scent
• Black, color fast colorant (black oxide would be ideal - can be obtained in the Natural Pack.)
• Red and green colorants (color fast colorants are better. Food colors might be too light for this purpose; a mica or gel colorant would probably work better.)
• Thick, large straw . . one from a stadium "sipper bottle" is ideal, or very small, round cookie cutter.
• Round soap mold(s)
• Knife with thin blade

TECHNIQUE:

1. Melt opaque soap base, color it a solid black with the black, color-fast colorant. Pour in thin layer (1/8" to 1/4" in thickness) on a plate or onto waxed paper; let set up.
2. Use the end of the straw (or cookie cutter) to punch watermelon "seeds" out of the black soap base. Set seeds aside.
3. Prepare red soap base with watermelon scent. Pour into soap molds, and quickly add "watermelon seeds" you just cut out. Try to place seeds more in the middle of the soap mold, as opposed to near the edges.
4. Let the watermelon soap set up. Using your knife, VERY carefully cut approximately 1/4 inch of the outside of the soap off, all the way around. Set the cuttings aside; you can use them later for decoration in another soap, or add them to a "fruit cocktail" soap.
5. Put watermelon soap back into center of round soap mold, trying to leave an equal amount of space from the side of the soap mold to the soap all the way around.
6. Now prepare green soap base with watermelon scent. With one hand, press the watermelon soap FIRMLY against the bottom of the soap mold. With the other hand, very carefully pour the green soap base into the space in the soap mold between the soap and the side of the soap mold. Hold this for about 10 or 20 seconds, then gently release pressure, and leave soap alone so it can set up.
7. Gently unmold soap. Voila. . . . a watermelon soap!

NOTE: You might need to trim the very bottom of the soap off a bit, in case some green base slid under the soap as it was sitting in the mold. If your mold was sufficiently deep, you will even be able to cut the soap into multiple "watermelon slices". Make sure you wrap these finished soaps promptly, preferably in shrink wrap, to keep them from drying out.

PEACH MELBA SOAP
(Submitted by Ela Heyn)
 
MATERIALS:
• Opaque and clear soap base (I use molding soap base)
• Peach and raspberry Fragrance Oils
• Colorant (Yellow, red and bit of blue)
• Disposable plastic water bottle, the type with an indentation in the middle

TECHNIQUE:
1. Melt some white soap base, and scent it with the peach fragrance oil (FO). Color it with a bit of yellow and a couple of touches of red, to make a nice peach color.
2. Cut the bottom off the disposable plastic water bottle; this will be your soap mold.
3. Pour peach soap base into the bottom of the water bottle to fill it. Let it set up.
4. Unmold peach soap, and set it down, indentation side up. Now heat some clear soap base, scent with raspberry, and color it with red and just a TOUCH of blue. (The TOUCH of blue will make the red appear darker).
5. Pour raspberry soap base into the indentation on the peach soap, allowing it to fill the indentation and run down the sides. Peach melba soap!
NOTE: If you want, you can even heat a bit of white soap base in a measuring cup, beat it HARD with a hand whisk, and add it to the top of the peach melba for "whipped cream".

SOAP BOUQUET
(Submitted by Ela Heyn)

MATERIALS:
• Flower shaped lollipop molds (from a party or candy making/craft store. NY Cake and Baking also has these: 1-800-CAKE-9.)
• Lollipop sticks (usually found the same place you get lollipop molds. Wooden lollipop sticks are best.)
• Clear soap base or opaque soap base (molding soap base is better than crafting soap base for this)
• Fragrance and colors, as desired.
• Bit of green tulle, or other green materials, or artificial leaves.

TECHNIQUE:
1. Make flower shaped soaps in the lollipop molds, putting them on a lollipop stick, as you would if you were using the mold to make actual lollipops.
2. Unmold and decorate lollipop stick with "foliage" made of green fabric, or artificial leaves.
3. Wrap each soap in shrink wrap, or Saran Wrap, to prevent soap from drying out.
4. Arrange flower soaps in a vase, or tie them together with yarn to make a colorful soap bouquet. This is a particularly nice gift for Valentine's day or Mother's Day.

Lovely Lavender Soap
(Submitted by Ela Heyn)

MATERIALS:
• Lavender essential oil (or Fragrance oil)
• Kaolin Clay
• Clear soap base or opaque soap base (molding soap base is better than crafting soap base for this application)
• Soap Molds
• Color (I use FD&C purple for this)

Optional: Lavender Buds (make sure they have not been treated with pesticides; I get organic lavender buds from the health food store - sold as loose tea - or gourmet shop for this reason). If you do use lavender buds, you will probably want to color your soap purple, to hide the brown discoloration that your lavender buds will incur after they have been in the soap for approximately a week.

TECHNIQUE:
1. Melt soap base, and color it with FD&C purple, if you desire.
2. Add approximately one teaspoon kaolin (or less) per lb (2 cups) of melted soap base, and stir. The kaolin serves to anchor the scent of the lavender essential oil in the soap (making the scent last longer), and is also good for oily skin.
3. Allow soap base to cool slightly before stirring again. Now add lavender essential oil. (Essential oils are very sensitive to heat, so you want to add them at the last possible moment to preserve as much of the lavender's healing properties as possible). Add approximately 40 drops of essential oil per lb. (two cups) of melted soap base, or less.
4. Add lavender buds, if desired, and stir them in.
5. Pour soap into molds, let harden, and unmold.

NOTES: To give added "staying power" to the lavender scent, you can try adding one or two drops of oakmoss absolute per lb. of melted soap base as well.

CREAMSICLE SOAP
(Submitted by Ela Heyn)

MATERIALS:
• Opaque soap base
• Soap molds (Can use any shape; can also use popsicle molds from the grocery store or candy store for this!)
• Popsicle sticks (optional)
• Color (I use FD&C red and yellow for this)
• Scents (I use an orange FO, and a non-discoloring vanilla FO)

TECHNIQUE:
1. Melt some opaque soap base, and scent it with a non-discoloring vanilla FO. Do not color it.
2. Pour into soap molds until molds are approximately 4/5 full. If adding popsicle sticks, add them now.
3. Let the soap set up.
4. Once the soap has hardened, unmold it and set it aside. Now melt a small bit of opaque soap base (approximately 1/4 to 1/3 as much as you prepared before). Scent this with your orange FO, and color it orange (1 drop of red food color to 2 or 3 drops of yellow should work nicely).
5. Pour the orange soap base in a thin layer onto the soap molds you used before. Now take the white, vanilla soap that you had made and SQUISH it very hard into the mold (and into the orange base). Either squish it hard enough that the base pours over the top of the soap (to surround all sides of the white soap), or pour additional orange base from your measuring cup over the top of the white soap. Either way, make sure that all white soap is coated under a coat of orange soap.
6. Let harden and unmold. An orange creamsicle soap just like the ice creams you enjoyed as a child in the summer!


GLOW IN THE DARK DINOSAUR SOAP EGGS
(Submitted by Ela Heyn)

MATERIALS:
• Glow in the Dark Dinosaurs (from a local party store, Wal-Mart, or oriental Trading: www.oriental.com)
• Plastic Easter Eggs large enough to hold the eggs
• Clear soap base (molding soap is better than crafting soap for this . . .)
• Something to stand the eggs up in (used egg carton)
• Fragrance, and perhaps a bit of iridescent mica

TECHNIQUE:
1. Take each egg, and using a match, melt a SMALL hole in one end of the egg.
2. Open the eggs, and insert a plastic dinosaur (too big for a child to swallow!) in each one. Close eggs, stand them up in an egg tray or other support, with hole end up.
3. Melt clear soap base, scent, and perhaps add a bit of iridescent mica. Pour carefully through hole in the top of each egg until egg is completely filled with soap.
4. Let the soap set, and then unmold carefully from plastic eggs. VERY carefully rub out seam line on the soap, using wet finger and/or edge of a butter knife.
5. "Charge" dinosaur by placing egg under bright light for five minutes, then shower in the dark with glow in the dark dinosaur egg soap.

NOTE: Sometimes when I make these, I like to melt a bit of opaque soap base, color it, and drizzle it over the top of the egg for a "dripping lava" effect.

LOOFAH SOAP
(Submitted by Ela Heyn)

This is a great soap to use on your tired feet after a hard day at work! It's sooooo pretty, and the exfoliating action of the loofah does a great job of smoothing out calluses and rough spots on your feet. (It's probably a little too rough to use on faces and other delicate skin, though!)
MATERIALS:
• 1 Muffin pan
• 1 Loofah (make sure it's not so wide that the pieces won't fit inside the muffin pan cavities).
• Clear soap base (preferably molding base)
• Fragrance and colorant of your choice.

TECHNIQUE:
1. To begin, cut the loofah into slices that are thin enough to fit into your muffin pan cavities without extending past the top of the cavity. Put the slices into the cavities, and put tape or rubber bands lightly over the tops of the cavities to hold them there.
2. Prepare your soap base, color and scent it. Pour the soap base into the muffin pan cavities carefully. It should fill the loofah, and the loofah should remain neatly suspended in the middle of the clear soap base.
3. Let set up, then unmold, carefully pulling the rubber bands/tape away from the soaps before unmolding. Voila . . beautiful loofah slices suspended in a clear soap, ready to use!

JELLY ROLL SOAP
(Submitted by Ela Heyn)

MATERIALS:
• Either a PVC pipe with end caps, or individual round molds.
• Clear soap base and opaque soap base
• Raspberry (or other fruit) scent
• Cake type scent (sugar cookie or vanilla, etc.)
• Appropriate colorant for fruit scent

TECHNIQUE:
1. Make your "filling" color soap . . something like a clear soap base with raspberry scent and a raspberry color is very nice. Pour this in a thin layer in a pan (like a plastic pan . . something you can get it out of again!)
2. Let it harden just until it's "solid" . . but still pliable. You'll want a layer of soap that's about 6" by 8" or so . . depending on the size of the PVC mold (or other round container) you will be using.
3. When it is still pliable, VERY carefully start peeling the soap from the pan and rolling from one end. Roll it into as tight a spiral (loose roll) as you can get without breaking it. Now, you have two options. They are:
a. Cut the soap into individual spirals, and put each in a round mold (My famous Wal-Mart hockey puck molds work great for this!) or
b. Take the whole soap spiral, and put it in PVC mold or Pringles container (or other round mold.)
4. Either way, once it's in there, fill the REST of the soap mold with a fairly warm over-pour to cause adhesion. (You might want to spritz your spiral with rubbing alcohol first). An opaque, sugar cookie scented over-pour with a hint of gold mica works well for this. When it's done . . voila . . . a jelly roll soap!

Multi-Layered Soap
(Submitted by Soap Wizards)
MATERIALS:
• Clear soap base
• Soap making fragrance(s) of your choice
• Soap mold of your choice
• Glycerin soap colorant
• Soap lock (Bubble Buster) in a misting bottle
TECHNIQUE:
1. Divide your clear soap base according to how many layers you would like in your finished soap.
2. Melt your divided soap. Add your soap colorant until the desired color is reached, then add your choice of fragrance for that color.
3. Repeat step 2 until all of your soap base is colored and scented. Don't worry if your soap begins to harden while you are preparing the rest of your soap, you can always re-melt it on demand.
4. Pour your first colored and scented layer and lightly spray some soap lock to remove any bubbles that may have formed. Let that layer cool. Spray more soap lock on the hardened layer. (this will keep your layers from seperating when the soap is un-molded.)
5. Repeat step 4 until you have filled your soap mold. Allow the soap you are going to use for your next layer to cool slightly before pouring. (remember to spray soap lock on each cooled layer)
6. Un-mold your soap and it's ready to use!

Sparkling Soap
(Submitted by Soap Wizards)
MATERIALS:
• Clear soap base
• Soap making fragrance of your choice
• Soap mold of your choice
• Colored mica (start with 1/2 tea spoon of mica and add or subtract according to your tastes)
• Distilled water (2 table spoons)
TECHNIQUE:
1. Melt your soap base and add your choice of fragrance.
2. Mix mica and water together and add to your melted soap.
3. Let the melted soap cool slightly, and pour into your soap mold.
4. Put your soap mold immediately into a freezer. (this keeps the mica from settling during the cooling process)
5. Un-mold and your soap is ready to use!

HOW TO USE A 3-D MOLD
(Submitted by Ela Heyn)

Here are my instructions for using a 3-D soap mold effectively. Of course, this is contingent upon the two halves of the soap mold fitting together correctly in the first place. So the first step would actually be to acquire a soap mold designed to be 3-D, or examine your soap mold to make sure that the two halves do, in fact, fit together to form a 3-D image. Assuming that you've done this:
1. Prepare sufficient soap base for BOTH halves of the soap mold at once - adding both scent and color to it. This can be either clear soap base or opaque soap base, in either crafting soap base or molding soap base.
2. Fill ONE half of the soap mold with soap base; let it "set up". The rest of the soap base can be allowed to cool down in the meanwhile.
3. When that half is "set up", unmold it. Now, reheat the rest of the soap base, and fill the OTHER half of the soap mold with soap base.
4. Very quickly, before the soap base has a chance to cool, take the finished half, and SMOOSH the unfinished side down into the molten soap base in the other half of the soap mold. Make sure as much of the surface of the hardened soap touches the molten soap base as possible, to get the greatest adhesion possible. You might need to pour a little extra soap base around the edges, to fill in any gaps between the two halves.
5. Let set up, and then unmold. Very carefully, with a wet finger or the edge of a butter knife, rub the seam to smooth it out as much as possible. A perfect 3-D soap object!

Note: It's important when making 3-D soap objects to prepare ALL of your soap base at once to ensure that the two halves of your finished soap match each other in texture, color, scent, etc!

Tye-Dye Soap
(Submitted by Soap Wizards)
MATERIALS:
• Clear soap base
• Soap making fragrance of your choice
• Soap mold of your choice
• Red glycerin soap colorant
• Blue glycerin soap colorant
• Yellow glycerin soap colorant
• Eye dropper
TECHNIQUE:
1. Melt your soap base and add your choice of fragrance.
2. Let the melted soap cool slightly, and pour into your soap mold.
3. Once a light skin forms on your soap, take your eye dropper (with one of the soap colorants in it) and place a few drops on the soap skin. Repeat this procedure for the rest of the colors.
4. Take a toothpick and lightly stir the colors into the molded soap and let cool
5. Un-mold and your soap is ready to use!